Why combining matters
Actives are the ingredients that do the heavy lifting: retinoids, exfoliating acids such as glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid, and vitamin C. Each can do lovely things on its own. Layer too many at once, though, and skin can end up red, tight and stinging, which sets you back.
The good news is that a few simple rules cover almost every combination.
The pairings that work well
Vitamin C in the morning, SPF on top. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps defend skin against daily environmental stress, so it sits well under sunscreen. AlumierMD EverActive C&E + Peptide goes on after cleansing, followed by moisturiser and Heliocare 360° Water Gel.
Hydrators with everything. Hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides and niacinamide are the supporting cast. They pair happily with retinoids, acids and vitamin C, and help skin stay comfortable. Revision HA HydraSerum+ layers well under moisturiser on any evening.
You may have read that niacinamide and vitamin C cancel each other out. With today's formulas, most skin is fine with both, and many well-made products combine niacinamide with other actives.
What to keep apart
Retinoids and exfoliating acids. Both speed up skin renewal, and on the same night they can be too much. Use them on separate evenings. Skip scrubs on retinoid nights too.
Strong vitamin C and acids at the same time. Together they can sting. Vitamin C in the morning and acids at night keeps things comfortable.
Doubling up. An acid cleanser, an acid toner and an acid serum add up quickly. Read your labels, because acids turn up in cleansers and pads as well as serums.
The exception is a product made to combine actives. skinbetter science AlphaRet Overnight Cream joins a retinoid to lactic acid, adds glycolic acid, and balances them with ceramides and squalane. That's very different from layering two strong products yourself. I'd use it on its own at night, without extra acids.
A simple week that works
Every morning: cleanse, vitamin C, moisturiser, SPF.
Evenings, once your skin is used to both: a retinoid such as AlumierMD Retinol Resurfacing Serum 0.25 on three nights, for example Monday, Wednesday and Friday. An exfoliating acid such as AlumierMD AHA Renewal Serum on one or two other nights. Rest nights in between, with cleanser, a hydrating serum and moisturiser.
Build up to this slowly. Patch-test each new active, introduce one at a time with a few weeks in between, and wear SPF every morning.
Tanisha's tipRest nights aren't lazy nights. An evening off actives is often what lets you keep using them long term.
Signs you've overdone it
Products that never stung suddenly sting. Skin feels tight, looks shiny but feels dry, flakes or turns red. Stop all actives and go back to cleanser, moisturiser and SPF until your skin is comfortable, then reintroduce one at a time.
If your skin is still sore or swollen a week or two after stripping back, see your GP. If you'd like a combination planned for your skin, a free consultation is the easiest route, and it's how you order skinbetter science and Revision Skincare.
