What's going on
The skin around your eyes is thinner and more delicate than the rest of your face, so changes show up there first.
Dark circles have a few causes. Some are pigment, which looks brownish and often runs in families. Some are tiny blood vessels showing through thin skin, which look bluish or purple. Others are simply shadows from the shape of the area, and look worse under overhead light.
Puffiness is often fluid that gathers overnight. Salty food, alcohol, short nights, crying and hay fever can all make it worse, and it usually eases as the day goes on. Bags that are there all day, every day, are more about structure, and skincare can't change that.
What helps
Caffeine helps reduce the look of puffiness. Peptides and hyaluronic acid help the area look smoother and better hydrated. Niacinamide and vitamin C help brighten, and light-diffusing minerals instantly brighten the look of shadowy areas. For fine lines, a gentle retinol made for the eye area is worth adding slowly.
Cold helps too. Chilled eye pads or a cool flannel can calm morning puffiness in minutes.
Your habits matter as much as any product: enough sleep, less salt and alcohol in the evening, sunglasses on bright days, and taking eye make-up off gently. Try not to rub your eyes.
Tanisha's tipPat eye products on with your ring finger. It's your weakest finger, so it's naturally gentle on thin skin.
A simple eye routine
Morning: after cleansing, pat AlumierMD AluminEye under your eyes, along the brow bone and over crow's feet. Its peptides and niacinamide help the eye area look brighter, smoother and more rested. Then apply your SPF. Heliocare 360° Mineral Tolerance Fluid SPF50 is fragrance-free and uses mineral filters only, which suits sensitive skin.
Evening: pat on AlumierMD Retinol Eye Gel, a slow-release retinol made for the eye area. Start a few nights a week and build up.
Before a big day, AlumierMD HydraRescue Eye Pads give a cooling hit of moisture in ten to fifteen minutes. For dark circles, I like Revision Skincare C+ Brightening Eye Complex, with vitamin C, caffeine and a cooling metal tip. For puffiness, skinbetter science Instant Effect Gel EYE has a steel rollerball and green coffee. Both are ordered after a free consultation.
What to be careful with, and how long to give it
Patch-test eye products, and keep them off your lids and lash line unless the product says otherwise. Don't use a face retinol or acid under your eyes unless it's made for that area. Retinol isn't for use while you're pregnant or breastfeeding.
Cooling and caffeine work within minutes, but the effect is temporary. Brightening and smoothing take longer: give an eye routine about three months. Dark circles that run in your family may soften only a little, and that's not a failure.
When to see a professional
See your GP if swelling comes on suddenly, affects one eye only, or comes with pain, itching, redness or a change in your vision. For hollows or bags that skincare can't reach, a qualified practitioner can talk you through in-clinic options.
